How to Lay Turf Made Easy
You can lay turf at almost any time of the year, even when the ground is slightly frozen or even during the heat of the summer. However, you will need more water during the summer days, then in winter. In comparison, spring and autumn have sufficiently favorable conditions for sowing most seed lawns.
Turf is especially useful where patches of lawn have become bare, full of weeds or any damaged areas. Winter use of street salt in northern regions is one major cause of damage in your lawn. Make a repair by removing the threadbare turf and prepare the soil for planting by adding a little fertilizer. You can buy a roll or two of sod at a local garden center and simply place the sod over the area. If erosion is a problem or it is on a slope, no matter how gentle or steep the incline, turf is the better option.
It is healthier and has a heavy root mat will withstand water runoff even before the lawn is fully established. Now to prepare the ground for a new lawn, you will want to till the topsoil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. You can usually rent a tiller from your local machine and garden center for around $50 USD. This will make your job much easier and after your done apply water and fertilizer for high phosphorus level.
On the delivery day of your turf, mist your soil with a little water to make it moist and slightly damp, but not muddy. The turf should be put down no more then 24 hours after it has be cut at the farm. Because the turf will be rolled, it will start to heat up and begin to biodegrade.
You will want to inspect the turf before the delivery truck leaves. Pick it up and shake it to make sure it does not fall apart. The turf should be lush green and the soil moist. If you do not like the appearance, refuse to accept it and send it back.
Many suppliers usually transport turf on pallets carrying 50 to 75 square yards each. To avoid a lot of heavy lifting, ask the driver to place the pallets in convenient place around your property. Do not let the driver put or drive over your walkways or drive way, because the combined weight of the truck and the turf will crack or damage your sidewalk or driveway.
Start to lay the turf along a longest straight line next to a sidewalk or edge of your lawn. When preparing the soil, make sure you leave ¾ to 1 inch below the level of the straight surface to make a neat, smooth transition from grass to
pavement.
Lay a single row of turf and tamp it down with a thick board on which you can apply equal pressure to firm the turf in to its place.
Butt and push the turf’s edge and ends against each other very tightly, without stretching the turf. Stagger the joints in each row like bricks, and avoid gaps or overlaps. On slopes, simply place the turf pieces a long the slop.
After lying the first row in place, take your plank of wood over the top so that you can stand or site on it, then begin to lay the next row of turf. Doing it this way will spread your weight and you avoid walking on the new turf.
Keep a quantity of sifted soil at your hand for smoothing out irregularities in the surface as the turf is being laid. Carefully use a sharp knife to trim the corners. Avoid leaving small strips at the outer edges. Because it will not retain any moisture, which will lead to the turf dying.
After installation, roll the entire area with a lawn roller, which can be found at your local machine or gardening center. In addition, use 1/3 full of water to press the turf roots into contact with the soil.
Do not allow the turf to dry out; it is essential to water it thoroughly so that it reaches the soil below. This will prevent the turf from shrinking and forming gaps. Allow the newly laid turf to be untouched for 3 to 4 weeks, which will give the roots time to become established in the underlying soil.

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