I have a 90% fine fescue lawn with about a 10% bluegrass mixture. In the video it is kinda hard to see so I put the images below: (You can click on the pictures to get a larger view.)

Make sure you have adequate time for ground preparation. Ideally, you should plan ahead and prepare your site at least three months before you intend to sow the seed. Thorough the site preparation is the key to establishing a healthy lawn. The best time to start is early summer for an autumn sowing.

Starting to prepare the soil:

The best soil for a healthy lawn is a well-drained, Sandy loam soil with a depth of 15 cm or 6 inches to 20 cm or 8 inches, though 30 cm or 12 inches is best. If your topsoil is poor or shallow then new topsoil should be added, this can be transferred from other areas of the lawn or you can buy a good topsoil from your local garden center.

If you are particularly sandy, you will need to incorporate some well-rooted, organic matter to help retain water and nutrients. On heavy, clay soils, drainage may be needed to improve incorporating roughly two parts sand to everyone part of soil.

If the soil drains badly then it is better to install some form of drainage. The most rewarding but also labor intensive project is to dig trenches in a herringbone pattern across the lawn; these connect to a main drain through the lawn towards the lowest part. Alternatively you can dig down to the sub-soil, add a 15cm or 6 inches of layer to rubble followed by a 5cm or 2 inches layer of grit or coarse sand and finally replace with a 15 cm or 6 inches layer of topsoil.

Leveling the site:

If you require a flat surface, drive pegs 10 to 12 feet apart, adjusting them by means of long straight edge and spirit level. Leveling large areas, or creating a particular slope, use an engineer’s level and intervening pegs. Where leveling involves more than a trivial alteration in contours, first take off the top soil to a depth of 6 inches and put it on one side.

Next, remove the sub-soil as necessary, excavating material from high places to fill hollows. After making the sub-soil perfectly level, restore the topsoil evenly over the entire area. Making sure that the topsoil is uniform over the whole site. Shallow patches of topsoil will show up later as there will be marked variations in the appearance of the turf, because grass will not thrive in those areas.

Rake the area to a level surface and then firm in the soil gently using a garden roller or simply by walking on the turf and firming using your feet.

When the area is quite flat and even, rake over it again to make a fine loose soil at the top, the ground should be firm but not compacted.

Remember the Land Sabbath

Leave the prepared site for three to four weeks to allow dormant weeds to germinate. Using a hoe, you can clear these weeds or you can just use a systemic weed killer.

Fertilizing

A week before you start to sow the seeds, add some fertilizer to the area at the rate of a handful per square yard. Growmore is a granular feed that you can scatter before you start to gently rake it into the surface.

Getting the Right Lime Requirements

A slightly acid soil reaction (pH 5.5 to 6.0) favors the finer grasses, but undue acidity is undesirable especially at sowing time. Where the reaction is pH of 5.5 or lower, apply no more then ¾ lb. of chalk or ground limestone per square yard.

Now it’s Time to Start Sowing

The best time of the year to sow seeds is from mid August to late September but it can also be sown from middle of March to early May.

The progress of spring-sown lawns is greatly influenced by weather conditions, and in some years when it conditions are cooler there may be a little delay in germination. If the summer is dry, watering demands will be higher then normal.

It is also important to choose the right day. The topsoil should be dry with moist soil just below the surface and the weather should be fine and calm. Mark out the area into square yards or meters. Shake the box and mix up the seeds and weigh out the seed to cover each square meter or yard. You can add sharp sand to the seed to make it spread easier, but to ensure you mix the seed well. Sow the seeds by scattering them first one way and then the other direction.

Sowing too thickly gives a patchy germination and seeding too thinly spreads will require a re-sowing. After sowing is completed, rake over the area to insure that you do not bury the seed.

Once the seeds have been sown, they will need to be protected. The best way is to build a fence to block off the site from animals and people. To discourage any flying animals from eating the seeds or landing in the blocked off area, tie some black cotton to short sticks and criss-cross the cotton over the area, suspended at least 7.5cm or 3 inches above the soil.

The late season sowing should produce seedlings that start to appear 7 to 21 days after sowing. During the early stages of growth, carefully weed the area by hand where possible, removing any weeds before they flower. As the grass continues to grow, it will stifle further weed growth. Seedlings are very susceptible to drought so during dry spells, keep them well watered, although take care not to over water. When the new lawn is 5cm or 2 inches high, cut with a rotary mower, down to 2.5cm or 1 inches.

Carefully rake up the clippings. Follow this procedure for the first three weeks to four cuts. Heavy usage should be avoided for the first 12 months.

Many of the weeds that spring up in newly sown lawns are annuals such as groundsel, goosefoot, chickweed, mayweed, and shepherd’s purse and although they may appear to retard the growth of grass, they do not survive regular mowing. However, you must not allow annuals to take seed.

Perennial weeds such as plantains, dandelions, and buttercups can be uprooted by hand but on the lawns avoid damaging the grass by treading on boards.

When the grass is 3 to 4 months old, a selective weed killer can be applied. Do not use lawn sand preparations until the turf is one year old.

To retain a lush green lawn and a uniform quality, a lawn should be mowed and rolled when necessary, aerating regularly, brushed and raked, top-dressed, weeded and kept free of pest and fungi.

You can lay turf at almost any time of the year, even when the ground is slightly frozen or even during the heat of the summer. However, you will need more water during the summer days, then in winter. In comparison, spring and autumn have sufficiently favorable conditions for sowing most seed lawns.

Turf is especially useful where patches of lawn have become bare, full of weeds or any damaged areas. Winter use of street salt in northern regions is one major cause of damage in your lawn. Make a repair by removing the threadbare turf and prepare the soil for planting by adding a little fertilizer. You can buy a roll or two of sod at a local garden center and simply place the sod over the area. If erosion is a problem or it is on a slope, no matter how gentle or steep the incline, turf is the better option.

It is healthier and has a heavy root mat will withstand water runoff even before the lawn is fully established. Now to prepare the ground for a new lawn, you will want to till the topsoil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. You can usually rent a tiller from your local machine and garden center for around $50 USD. This will make your job much easier and after your done apply water and fertilizer for high phosphorus level.

On the delivery day of your turf, mist your soil with a little water to make it moist and slightly damp, but not muddy. The turf should be put down no more then 24 hours after it has be cut at the farm. Because the turf will be rolled, it will start to heat up and begin to biodegrade.

You will want to inspect the turf before the delivery truck leaves. Pick it up and shake it to make sure it does not fall apart. The turf should be lush green and the soil moist. If you do not like the appearance, refuse to accept it and send it back.

Many suppliers usually transport turf on pallets carrying 50 to 75 square yards each. To avoid a lot of heavy lifting, ask the driver to place the pallets in convenient place around your property. Do not let the driver put or drive over your walkways or drive way, because the combined weight of the truck and the turf will crack or damage your sidewalk or driveway.

Start to lay the turf along a longest straight line next to a sidewalk or edge of your lawn. When preparing the soil, make sure you leave ¾ to 1 inch below the level of the straight surface to make a neat, smooth transition from grass to pavement.

Lay a single row of turf and tamp it down with a thick board on which you can apply equal pressure to firm the turf in to its place.

Butt and push the turf’s edge and ends against each other very tightly, without stretching the turf. Stagger the joints in each row like bricks, and avoid gaps or overlaps. On slopes, simply place the turf pieces a long the slop.

After lying the first row in place, take your plank of wood over the top so that you can stand or site on it, then begin to lay the next row of turf. Doing it this way will spread your weight and you avoid walking on the new turf.

Keep a quantity of sifted soil at your hand for smoothing out irregularities in the surface as the turf is being laid. Carefully use a sharp knife to trim the corners. Avoid leaving small strips at the outer edges. Because it will not retain any moisture, which will lead to the turf dying.

After installation, roll the entire area with a lawn roller, which can be found at your local machine or gardening center. In addition, use 1/3 full of water to press the turf roots into contact with the soil.

Do not allow the turf to dry out; it is essential to water it thoroughly so that it reaches the soil below. This will prevent the turf from shrinking and forming gaps. Allow the newly laid turf to be untouched for 3 to 4 weeks, which will give the roots time to become established in the underlying soil.

So you have prepared the soil and done your research on the particular type of grass that you want for your lawn. Now the next decision is pretty easy, do you want to buy turf or sow a new lawn from seed. There are many advantages and disadvantages to both methods. However, laying turf as the upper hand in many cases. Here are some things to consider when deciding to lay turf or sow a new lawn from seed.

Advantages & Disadvantages of Laying Turf

Advantages

Laying turf can be done at any time during the year, regardless of the climate for temperature.

You can have a new lawn in a day, laying turf is the fastest way to make a lawn.

There are several different choices of turf ranging from high to low maintenance requirements.

The process of installing it is simple. Lay the turf in a straight line and then pat it down tightly.

Laying turf quickly establishes itself in the new lawn.

Disadvantages

Many times buying turf can get expensive, this depends on where you shop and how much you buy. The more you buy the more shipping costs will be, so make sure you calculate shipping costs into your decision.

Once you have received the turf having a place to put it that will not damage the turf or your sidewalk while you prepare to lay it down. (I can’t tell you how many times I watch people order a ton of turf and on delivery day, the weight of the turf cracked their driveway.)

Difficulty in obtaining high quality turf

Sometimes the turf you buy will have lawn diseases that have not made them self know yet. So when your turf arrives, inspect it thoroughly. Look for any weeds, discoloration, clovers and anything else that looks like it shouldn’t be there.

Advantages & Disadvantages of Sowing Seed

Advantages

Cheaper than buying a lot of turf.

Cleaner and better quality lawn as an end result.

Ease of subsequent management.

Can better pick the type of grass you want to have.

Disadvantages

Very slow, takes at least three months just to prepare the soil before you sow the seed.

Requires a lot more work. If you are a busy person you may not have the time.

For best results sowing can only be done in September.

It all depends on your personal preference, but for many people turf has the advantage over sowing seeds. With laying turf you can have a instant lawn in one day. From soil preparation to the final layout. The main thing is buying enough turf from your local grower that will guarantee you get a grass that grows well in your area. In addition your local grower should have several different offers and choices of available.

There are many options and varieties of grass you can choose from, with over 10,000 different types of grasses in the world, surely picking one would be a pretty easy process.

Choosing the right grass will depend heavily upon where you live and the type of grass that fits your taste.

Picking the right type of grass for your area will keep your lawn lush green and looking healthy for the entire year. Before you decide what type of grass you want, you need to determine the intent for using your lawn.

Will you be using your lawn for aesthetics or if you have small children or pets will you be playing on a lawn. Certain types of grass species are better suited to handle the heavy traffic while others can provide a beautiful looking lush green lawn but is weak in the wear and tear department.

Another thing you should consider for choosing the appropriate type of grass is the level of maintenance you want to put in. Many species of grass require a high maintenance to maintain their lush green attributes. If you enjoy watering, fertilizing and keeping up with your lawn then this might be the way to go. Other types of grasses are slow to grow and our drought tolerant with not needing to mowed frequently.

Low-maintenance lawns tend to not always look as bright green and have a yellowish color to them, but for some people they are still perfectly acceptable.

After you have come to your conclusion about how much traffic your lawn will receive and how much maintenance you want to put into it, then it is time to choose the type of grass you want. Now I am not going to list over 10,000 grasses here, after all the page whenever be done loading, however I did find this website that has a list of all of the known grasses in the world. Check it out here:

http://www.kew.org/data/grasses-db/sppindex.htm

The Most Common Types of Grass

There are two basic groups of grass commonly found in lawns, these are cool season grasses and warm season grasses. Depending on your climate and your personal preferences to traffic and maintenance will depend on what type of grass to choose.

Common Cool Season Lawn Grasses

In general, cool season climates have hot summers and cold winters. Choosing the right type of grass will help your lawn withstand drastic changes in temperature and a good amount of rain and/or a drought. Cool season grasses usually grow best in moderately cool temperatures during the spring and fall.

Kentucky Bluegrass
* Kentucky Bluegrass is the most common lawn grass in the North and transition zones
* excellent color, texture and density
* not very shade or drought tolerant
* tends to be high maintenance

Perennial Rye Grass

* Perennial rye grass is desirable for its rapid germination rates
* excellent wear tolerance, great in high traffic lawns
* used to over seed dormant southern lawns in the winter

Fine Fescue
* Fine fescue including Red fescue and Chewings fescue
* excellent shade and drought tolerance

In northern climates and most of the the transition zone a typical lawn will contain a mixture of Bluegrass, Perennial Rye grass and fine fescue, allowing the ability to be adapted to your specific conditions.

Common Warm Season Lawn Grasses

Maintaining a lawn in a southern or warm season climate can be difficult. The right type of grass and the right type of soil is essential. This type of climate needs ‘warm season’ grasses that can withstand warm weather. Warm season grasses grow actively from April to October.

Bermuda Grass
* Bermuda grass is drought resistant
* prefers full sun

Zoysia Grass
* Zoysia grass is common transition zone grass
* heat and drought tolerant

St. Augustine
* St. Augustine is very popular Southern lawn grass.
* high tolerance for heat

Bahia Grass
* Bahia grass is resistant to drought,disease and insects
* does well in a variety of soils

Centipede Grass
* Centipede Grass can grow in low fertility soils
* low maintenance requirements

Seashore Paspalum
* Seashore Paspalum is excellent salt tolerance, popular in coastal regions
* low fertility requirements with excellent disease, insect, and drought tolerance

Warm season grasses don’t mix well as they end up competing with one another. Which is the best warm season grass is largely determined by soil composition and personal preference. Most warm season grasses turn brown under extended cooler temperatures which may warrant winter over seeding with perennial rye grass.

It is the critical that you choose the grass variety that suits your needs and one that likes your local climate and type of soil. So make sure you choose wisely and make clear decisions on any type of grass you want. If you are still confused, or having trouble picking a type of grass that you want then head down to your local gardening center and start up a conversation with one of employees there. They will guide you and let you know what types of grass are perfect for your area and climate.

Still Can’t Make a Decision: Download this PDF

Selecting the Right Grass Seed

“By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail.” – Benjamin Franklin

Ok, maybe he wasn’t talking about lawn care when he said it, but it makes sense to always prepare before you take on a task.

This can be said for preparing the soil for your new lawn as well. Now the importance of preparing the soil for a new lawn cannot be stressed strongly enough. This process creates the foundation for your new lawn and it will directly affect its ability to take up the nutrients and water you will provide to it.

By putting in the necessary work in right now you will not only save time and effort later on, you will not have to correct the flaws that will be visible later on in the process.

Regardless if you are sowing a new lawn or planning to lay turf, preparing your soil is the first step for both procedures. When preparing a new lawn there are some things to take note of and they are, the size of the lawn, the previous use of the lawn and the soil type.

Here are the steps needed to prepare your soil:

Step One: Working With a Clean Area

The first step in preparing the soil will be just to remove any large objects that are on the soil surface and this will include rocks, stones, shrubs, garbage or any other unwanted objects in the lawn.

Step Two: Inspecting For Weeds

After you’ve completed step one, you should inspect your lawn site for any perennial weeds. The common weeds that are found in most lawns are nettles, thistles, dandelions in any other unwanted nuisances. Depending on what you find you will have two options to take care of the weeds. The easiest one is just to dig them up by their tap roots, however if there is a large number of them you may want to resort to using a chemical weed killer with a formula of 2-4-D killer. If you decide to use a chemical weed killer, then make sure to check the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the amount to use per square feet of application.

If you decide not to use a chemical weed killer, then do not just cut the weeds. Getting them out by their roots will ensure that they are permanently removed and will not regrow within a couple of months. Once you have removed all of the unwanted nuisances collect them all and you can use them either for compost or you can just throw them away. Although, I like to have little fun with them, so I catch them on fire and burned them.

Step Three: Providing a Fair Advantage

Now that you have a clean lawn area and you have gotten rid of all unwanted debris and other vegetation’s, it may be necessary to get rid of
any large trees and any major large stumps that still remain in the ground. If you have a relatively young tree that you wish to keep, you can dig up the tree while keeping the roots immersed in the soil and then relocated to a non-lawn area for safekeeping.

The roots from any large trees or shrubs will seriously damage the quality of your lawn because they will be competing for the lawns resources. Large trees will always win this battle because they get better sunlight and absorbed more water and the soil nutrients then the grass does. Over time the grass will become weakened and start to turn yellow and will have patches areas if the trees and shrubs are not removed.

Step Four: Feeding The Ground

Now you are ready to start digging in the dirt YaY!

This is the fun part, in the step we add any necessary soil conditioning materials, such as coarse sand, organic matter and even bone-meal. By adding the soil conditioning material it will help improve the texture of the soil and improve soils drainage and moisture retention.

Ideally you want to do this 2 to 3 months before you start sowing or laying turf down. This is because the soil needs time to settle after being loosened. By hasting the situation and not letting the soil settle you will find that the soil will settle after the lawn has developed and the dips, bumps and depressions will appear in the lawn.

Rake the soil level with a soil rake. If you are going to do this manually in firm soil, it will take a lot of time energy and effort if you have a large lawn. You may want to consider a garden roller. Just make sure that when you do this these the soil surface is dry, by raking the soil when it is wet you then greatly destroy the soil structure and it will result in a weaker and unhealthier looking lawn.

That’s basically it for preparing the soil, for a visual representation from an Australian guy. Check out this YouTube video:

Even the most carpet-like lawn can develop problems. If your lawn isn’t healthy and you can’t diagnose the trouble, dig up a patch of soil and take it to a reliable nursery or the local Cooperative Extension Service for analysis. Here are some common situations:

Problem: Grass won’t grow under a tree.
Solution: In northern climates, consider planting shade-tolerant fine fescues. In the South, try tall fescue.

Problem: Grass won’t grow on a slope.
Solution: If the slope is hot and dry, more regular, deep watering might help. If you can’t get grass established, try laying sod or having a professional “hydroseed” — plant seeds encapsulated in a special material to keep them from drying out.

Problem: Lawn is overrun with weeds.
Solution: Apply herbicide in spring and fall. Do both because each application kills different weeds. If the problem is severe and doesn’t respond in one or two years, you may have to kill the lawn with a non-selective herbicide and then replant.

Problem: Lawn has bare patches.
Solution: Try reseeding these areas. In spring or early fall, scratch the bare patch with a ground rake and sprinkle with lawn seed. Mark off the area with stakes and strings, and water gently. Keep the area moist for the next few weeks, watering daily if necessary. If high traffic is the problem, consider creating a path or patio surface.

Problem: Lawn has brown spots or weblike threads.
Solution: Fusarium patch makes 2 to 12-inch-wide brown spots or weblike threads in thatch and grass in early spring. Minimize shade and fertilization; improve drainage; apply fungicide in early fall.

Problem: Lawn is dotted with bleached or gray spots.
Solution: Dollar spot causes numerous such spots to appear. Spots may merge to make larger, straw-colored areas, while cobweb-like growths may appear with morning dew. Fertilize; apply fungicide.

Problem: Lawn is dotted with small orange pustules on blades.
Solution: Rust is the cause of these orange, smudgy spots. Fertilize grass and keep well watered. Mow frequently and remove clippings. Apply fungicide if condition persists.

Problem: Lawn has green circular patches that die off.
Solution: The patches are called fairy rings, which sometimes feature mushrooms as well. Aerate the lawn; apply fertilizer. Keep the lawn wet for three to five days.

Problem: Lawn develops large patches of brown grass in late summer.
Solution: Dig up some of the brown areas and look underneath for small grubs, the likely cause. Apply Diazinon, isofenphos, or chlorpyrifos. Apply just after eggs are laid; check with a reliable nursery or local Cooperative Extension Service for the correct time to do this.

You can lay turf at any time of the year, but
the best time of year is during summer. After
you have laid turf, make sure you immediately
begin to water it. In comparison, spring and
autumn offers favorable conditions for
sowing most seed lawn.

Buying your turf from your local gardening center
will ensure that you get the right type of
grass for your area. Using turf is especially useful
more patchy up your lawn. Or you can use the turf
to create a entirely new lawn.

PARING THE SOIL

But before you start laying the turf, you need to
repair the soil. Tilling the topsoil depth of
2 to 5 inches will ensure that the ground is well
mineralized. After this, add a small amount of
fertilizer with a small amount of water. Now
your soil is ready for the turf.

On delivery day slightly water again to ensure
the soil is damp but not muddy. The turf should be
put down in a 24 hour timeline. Before you start
laying the turf make sure that you inspect it.
Pick up the turf and shake it to make sure
it does not fall apart.

HOW TO LAY THE TURF

Lay the turf in single rows and tap down with a
board on which you can apply equal amount of pressure.
Tightly push each day against each other and avoid
gaps at all costs. Carefully using knife to trim
corners and avoid eating strips at the edges.

After the installation, use a lawn roller
and one third of water to press the sod roots
into the contact soil. By watering the turf
immediately you prevent that her from shrinking.

The first step before you start any new lawn
is to select the best type of grass that meets
your requirements. It is essential that you choose
the grass variety that suits your needs and is
optimal for your climate area. In addition, to the
type of soil found in your lawn. That will contribute
to the overall success of your beautiful new lawn.

All of the types of grass all have different preferences
and conditions they do best in different climates. Some do best
in watery climates while others do best in dry climates.

The grass tolerance for shade will also be determined
what type of grass is best for your area. Many new grass
varieties and mixtures, come out on the market every year.

As anybody would tell you at your local garden center
what is right for your specific area. Grass that can withstand
heavier usage such as a pool or constant walking on should
also help determine what type of grass you should grow.

TURF versus SOWING

Turf grass has many advantages over sowing seeds.
With turf you can have a lawn almost instantaneously.
All you have to do is prepare the soil and then lay turf.

While sowing seeds takes time and much more preparation.
Ideally you should plan and prepare this site three months,
before you intend to seed. However, preparation is key
in establishing a healthy lawn from seeds.